A Nostalgic 2-Day Cultural Escape in Tomonoura

Begin at this former Edo-period ship checkpoint, now a cozy café overlooking Tomo Port. The shrimp curry is the distinctive meal to look for, and the international signal flags add to the maritime atmosphere.

Climb toward the hillside temple for views over the town. It stands on the site of a Nanboku-chō-period battlefield and later hosted officials from Korean envoys during the Edo period.

Stop for daifuku and soft serve. Seating indoors is limited, but the shop lends a small mat so you can sit beside the water. Keep food protected from birds after a cookie was unexpectedly taken nearby.

Visit the second-oldest temple in Tomonoura, founded in 826 by Kōbō Daishi. The main grounds already have beautiful views before the more demanding climb.

If energy and time allow, continue the numbered stair climb to Taishi-do Hall. The full ascent is 583 steps; the main temple grounds remain a worthwhile viewpoint if you skip the extra climb.

Walk down to the historic stone port lantern, built in 1859. At 11 meters from its ocean base, it is described as the largest remaining stone port lantern from the Edo period and is especially atmospheric when the daytime visitors have gone.

Use this as the flexible dinner stop after exploring the port. The owner studied culinary arts in Italy; the pasta was particularly successful, while the pizza received a less enthusiastic reaction.

Stay overnight in this lodge renovated from a traditional old house. The guestbook and its drawings from previous visitors contribute to the intimate, lived-in character of the stay.

Start the route from Fukuyama Station, where roses were in full bloom during the visit. From directly outside the station, take the bus toward Tomonoura; the journey takes about 30 minutes.

Pause at the port itself for the historic maritime setting: Tomonoura was a place where ships waited for the right tide before sailing and is now known for its preserved port-town character.

Arrive at opening time to experience the Taichoroh Guest Hall with minimal interruption. Sit on the tatami mats and look across toward Benzaiten Fukujudo; the sea breeze and the view are the main experience.

Stop here for the calm breakfast set. The meal was 700 yen and included especially well-liked mushroom soup.

Take the ferry from Tomonoura to Sensui Island. The crossing provides views of the calm inner sea and Bentenjima, the uninhabited sacred island dedicated to Benzaiten.

View Bentenjima from the ferry rather than attempting to land. Visitors cannot set foot on this uninhabited sacred island, but its position beside the route makes it a memorable sea view.

Walk the reopened Sensuijima Coastal Promenade. The route passes clear blue water and layered rock formations, including rocks described as appearing in five different colors.

Continue to the peaceful beach that concludes the coastal walk, then turn back toward the ferry. The surrounding mountains have soft fresh-green foliage during the May visit.

Return to Tomonoura for a drink or light stop in this gallery and café, converted from a large traditional storehouse. Its refined interior and small children’s play area make it a relaxed post-ferry pause.

Finish with the local seafood-focused meal here. The sea bream rice was highlighted, along with the freshness of the seafood.